Choosing Between Fiberglass Cloth and Chopped Strand Mat (fiberglass mat)

Do you have a project in mind but have no idea where to start?  Let us help you.  One of the first things you will want to do is decide what kind of fiberglass you want to use.  Do you need to build up thickness fast?  Are you concerned about strength? Do you have tight corners you are working with?  Let us break things down a bit to help you decide if fiberglass cloth is right for your project or if you are needing chopped strand mat. Keep in mind that you can actually use both together to achieve your desired outcome.

Here is an overview –


(Plain weave fiberglass cloth)

Fiberglass Cloth is a woven fabric. Plain, 4 harness satin and 8 harness satin are the weave styles we carry. The 5.6, 6, 7.5 and 10 ounce plain weave fabrics are the most commonly used. In this simple plain weave pattern, warp and fill yarns are interlaced over and under each other in alternating fashion. The plain weave is the easiest to handle since it does not unravel as much as the other weaves when cut.


In the four-harness satin weave pattern there is a three by one interfacing where a filling yarn floats over three warp yarns and under one.


The eight harness satin is similar to the four harness satin except that one filling yarn floats over seven warp yarns and under one.

The satin weaves are slightly stronger and more pliable than the plain weave and are easier to conform to curved surfaces. They are more difficult to handle than the plain weave, though.

Use fiberglass cloth when you are looking to create a strong, light weight product.

fiberglass mat

Chopped Strand Mat (also known as fiberglass mat) has short strands of fibers held together with a resin binder. The fibers are randomly oriented. Mat is only compatible with polyester and vinyl ester resin. When resin is added to the mat, the binder dissolves and the fibers can be moved around. It is easier to conform mat to tight curves and corners than it is with weaved fabric.

The reason chopped strand mat is not compatible with epoxy resin is because the binder holding the fibers together needs styrene to properly dissolve.  Polyester and vinyl ester resins have styrene in them. (There are some places that sell chopped strand mat that is compatible with epoxy but it is hard to come by and much more expensive).

Chopped strand mat is the least expensive fiberglass and is often used in mold construction or projects where thickness is needed. Mat is often used as the first layer (before the gelcoat) in a laminate to prevent print through. Print through is when the fabric weave texture shows through the resin.

Chopped Strand mat does not have much strength. If you need strength you should choose a woven cloth or you could mix the two. Mat can be used between layers of woven fabric to help build thickness quickly and aid in all layers bonding well together.

If you have any questions feel free to comment.  We will do our best to reply with an answer. Or, you can visit our product website Fiberglass Warehouse for more information.


80 thoughts on “Choosing Between Fiberglass Cloth and Chopped Strand Mat (fiberglass mat)

  1. Bob Schmidt says:

    I want to cover an old car floor that has some pitting and minor holes. The floor has been protected with PPG DP 90. I think using fiberglass cloth would be my best option, as it should be stronger and thinner than mat. Do you know of any issues I may encounter? Thanks.

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Fiberglass Cloth would be the best option. A couple layers of the 10 oz cloth with epoxy resin will last a long time. The DP 90 is an epoxy primer, so epoxy resin should be used. Depending on how long ago you applied the primer, you may need to rough it up a little.

      • Bob Schmidt says:

        Thank you for the reply. I applied the DP 90 over 20 years ago, but will lightly sand/roughen up before applying the cloth and resin.
        Would the 1200 resin and hardener, along with the 10 oz. cloth, be a good choice for my use?

        • fgwarehouse says:

          That would be perfect. I would used to 80 or 120 grit to roughen it up. Be sure to clean it with acetone afterwards.

  2. Nick Cantrell says:

    Hi, I am planning on making aftermarket bolt-on fender flares for a car. The shapes do have contour and seams but no complex geometry. The fenders need to be durable but also light. What type of layup would you suggest?

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Chopped strand mat will always be the easiest and cheapest to use. I would still recommend using chopped strand mat against the mold, then a layer or two of 6 oz cloth, depending on how strong it needs to be. If you want superior strength, use vinyl ester resin. It’s characteristics are similar to epoxies.

  3. mario r miralda says:

    I want to repair my swimming pool in ground what kind of fiberglass mat I have to use how much fiberglass mat I need in my swimming pool in ground 35″5″ length ×15″8″width 37″shallow 6″4″deep thanks

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Hello Mario, I calculated roughly 122 square yards that you will need. First off, what is the problem? Are you just redoing the surface? Is the surface cracked? Is the gel coat peeling? You will also need to choose a type of resin. You need a minimum of ISO resin and our guard gel coat.

  4. mario r miralda says:

    hi yes I want to redoing the surface and floor it has holes in the walls floor is cracks thank you for your help

  5. Edward Atha says:

    I’m building a large vivarium and want to fiberglass it rather then paint it the cage dimensions are 70″ W x 24″ D x 48″ H it’s my first time to use fiber glass any help much appreciated

  6. John Berenyi says:

    I have a 1974 Corvette that needs its lower spare tire tub repaired. There is about a 3″ hole through the tub probably from it dropping down on the ground while moving. What kind of fiberglass should I use to repair this hole?

  7. Dave Russell says:

    I’m building a canal boat out of plywood,(34ft).
    It will be structurally strong but needs to take the odd scrape against concrete.
    Finish not important…… Waterproofing is !!
    I was thinking of building up layers of mat with a black pigment.
    Am I doing the correct thing and if so how many layers/weight.
    Regards Dave

    • fgwarehouse says:

      If this was my boat, I would use a couple layers of style 7500, 10 oz fiberglass cloth. BUt were it starts to curve up in the front, I would probably add 2 or three more layers. Even though it is more expensive, I think you will have better luck using epoxy resin. Our Epoxy 1300 would do great. It is a 4:1 system that has excellent waterproofing capabilities and is very strong. YOu can add black pigment to it also.

  8. Matt says:

    Hi there,

    I want to install a skylight on a campervan that has a fibreglass roof. I am going to bolt the framework to the roof supports but need to build fibreglass up the sides to keep the water out and provide some strength. Do I need to use cloth or will strand mat do the trick?

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Epoxy will do the best adhering to the framework. So you will need to use fiberglass cloth, like the 6 oz Style 3733. If you don’t want to go with the expense of the epoxy/cloth. Vinyl Ester resin is the next best resin. It is almost as waterproof as the epoxy. And you can use chopped strand mat. You can also use Orca 301 ISO resin with good results also. With the vinyl ester and ISO resins, you can use gel coat over top of it. The gel coat is UV protected. The epoxy should be painted over with a UV protected polyurethane paint.

  9. Mark says:


    I need to reinforce an area on an old jet ski that is SMC. What would be the preferred fiberglass and I’m assuming epoxy resin only? Also what type of prep would need to be done before applying the fiberglass. Thanks for your help.

  10. Nick B says:

    I want to make a standing platform on top of my canoe. The surface area will be approx 40”wX 60” l. What is my best option for strength. Thickness won’t be an issue so I can do layers. I haven’t decided if I’m going to use a polyurethane/ styrofoam mold (for insulating properties, or just use a plywood frame. Also what resin would be best for strength with both and water proof for plywood?

    • fgwarehouse says:

      For strength and waterproofing, epoxy is always the best. If you don’t want to spend the money on epoxy, go with vinyl ester resin. It is much better than polyester resin and almost as good as epoxy. And also much cheaper. Also, you can cover it will gel coat afterwards to help protect the fiberglass.

      As far as plywood or styrofoam, the plywood will be stronger, but also heavier. If you use styrofoam, you will need to go with epoxy. All the ‘ester’ resins will eat the styrofoam.

      Let me know if you have any more questions.


  11. Steven G says:

    Hello, I am trying to cover an exterior deck staircase with fiberglass, mainly to help waterproof under neath the stair area. Can you recommend whether to use cloth mat or fiberglass strand? Thank you!

  12. Tony Pinder says:

    Hi, I am about to embark on building an 8ft plywood dinghy. My main concern is weight. I am thinking of using 1/4 inch marine plywood and other lightweight wood. What do you reccomend I use to finish the hull plywood and still maintain some degree of lightness? thanks

  13. Scott D says:

    I am replacing the floor of my run about boat. I have 3/4″ marine grade plywood for the replacement.
    Not necessarily needing strength just water proofing that I can add carpet to. What would be the best fiberglass type and thickness as well as the appropriate resin/epoxy system?

  14. Stefanos says:

    Happy new year to all!!
    I want to make a bumper for my offroad truck.I made the mold and I’m ready for the first product,so I’m thinking to use surface tissue at the first hand lay(because the mold have some very tight and sharp corners and edges)….after 2 hand lays with mat and 2-3 cloth for better strength ,all with vinilester…Is it wrong the mix or not

  15. Toba says:

    Hello, I want to convert a rectangular shaped mosaic surface concrete swimming pool to a fiberglass, the entire internal surface dimension is 135 square meters, I’ll like to have an idea of the
    (1) Suitable type of mat,&quantity (2) Resin quantity (3) gelcoat and any other useful information on all other required materials.

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Hello Toba,

      Ok, this is what a pool re-surfacer uses:

      ISO resin
      chopped strand mat
      ISO/NPG Gel Coat w/ wax

      135 square meters = 161 square yards

      You will need:
      Chopped strand mat: 2 rolls of 1.5 oz x 50″ chopped strand mat.
      ISO resin: 6 pails of ISO resin
      MEKP: 1 gallon
      Gel coat: 5 pails of white/waxed gel coat.
      6 rollers
      20 measuring cups
      gel coat gun

      Let me know if you have any other questions.


  16. Cody says:

    I’m building a custom Batwing Audio Fairing for my motorcycle. I’m using a cheap fiber glass fairing shell off ebay and I have read that the quality is garbage, so I want to give it strength. I feel as if it would be a fairly easy job as it does not even need to look very good since this will be all unseen and inside the fairing. There are likely a few tight corners where the fairing wraps the head light, but it is mostly a smooth sweeping, relatively flat surface. Whatcha thinking? 🙂

    • fgwarehouse says:

      So you are trying to strengthen the batwing? I would get some 3/4 oz csm and resin and work the fibers into the nooks and crannys.


  17. David says:

    I am building a sculpture that has some tight bends, and some flat surfaces. It is formed with chicken wire, covered in plaster gauze, and reinforced from the inside with expandable foam (great stuff brand). It is starting to firm up, and isn’t too flexible. But there are areas that could flex if pushed enough. I would like to have a fiberglass surface, and sanded to a smooth finish and painted. It should be strong, with a medium thickness. I’m thinking a combination of strand mat and cloth to cover it. Any thoughts?

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Hey David, do you have a picture of the sculpture? Yes, that should work. It will make it much stronger. The chopped strand mat will be the easiest to work into the nooks and crannies. Then add the cloth over top to strengthen it up. Fairing compound should be used on the surface to smooth it out.

  18. Matt says:

    I am looking to put a thin layer of fiber glass on a wooden toboggan I am making for my family. The purpose of the Fiber glass is for wear and tear and a little rigidity. the wood will be stained and wrapped 360 in the fiber cloth. I am thinking 6 oz might be too heavy , but I have zero experience with fiber cloth and resins. Please help.

    Thanks Matt

  19. Bob says:

    I need to reinforce an old motorcycle seat pan and believe fiberglass would work well. It has many cracks and is not very sturdy anymore. My plans are to sandblast the seat pan then drill and braze the cracks. What would you recommend to reinforce the seat pan..mat, cloth, both?… Looking for strength over thickness. Best resin to use for strength? doesn’t have to be pretty as it will be covered with the foam and cover once repaired.
    Thank you in advance for your advice.

  20. sean says:

    I want to repair my swimming pool in ground what kind of fiberglass mat I have to use how much fiberglass mat I need in my swimming pool in ground 25′ length ×15′ width 4’shallow 6′ deep. I’ll like to have an idea of the
    (1) Suitable type of mat,&quantity (2) Resin quantity (3) gelcoat and any other useful information on all other required materials.

  21. momen says:

    is possible that one layer of chopped matt strand with polyester resin and second layer of fiber glass cloth with epoxy resin with hold together good?

    • fgwarehouse says:

      If you laminate the epoxy to the polyester, and not the polyester to the epoxy. If the polyester is cured, rough it up, then laminate the epoxy and cloth to it.

  22. Don B. says:

    I need to repair some cracks in my Harley-Davidson saddlebags. The cracks are right at the mounting points, so I need to ensure a strong repair. The repair will be on the inside of the saddlebags, so aesthetics is not an issue. Should I use chopped strand or fiberglass cloth (plain or satin weave?)?
    Thank you!

  23. Scott says:

    I’m thinking about reinforcing a new plastic gun case to make it sturdier. My idea would be to apply 1″ strips diagonally on the inside in a criss cross pattern. It sounds like I should use cloth not mat. And I might also reinforce the vertical “walls” of the case. Maybe I would first lay in the horizontal strips, apply the resin to them, and let that cure. Then do the vertical reinforcement the next day. That would mean applying the vertical strips and resin over the fiberglass ends of the criss cross strips.

    The finish wouldn’t be important because foam padding lines the inside of the case.

    Does this sound feasible?

    • fgwarehouse says:

      It does sound feasible. I would rough up the plastic with some 120 grit sand paper, clean it with acetone, then use epoxy resin. Polyester resin does not adhere will to plastic. Use the Proglas Epoxy with the 4:1 hardener. The 1″ tape will work well also. Let me know if you have any other questions.

  24. Alex Maurer says:

    Hello, I am redoing a boat floor, stringers, and transom. My plan is to use 10 oz mat but unsure still of which resin will be best. I do want to gel coat everything when done, except the stringers under the floor. Looking for good strength but cheaper. Also, I read that chop strand should be the final layer before I gel coat? And any suggestions how to gelcoat the floor and have it textured so it doesnt slip so much? Thank you!

    • fgwarehouse says:

      If it were me, I would use 2 layers Knitted fabric 1708 and ISO resin. The 1708 is a biaxial fabric with a mat stitched to it. It is very strong. The ISO resin is a better quality resin the Ortho laminating resin. If you lay the 1708 with mat outward, you can gel coat over top of that. If you can spray the gel, it will always lay down better, or you can brush it on. You can add sand to the last layer of waxed gel coat to get a non-skid surface.

  25. Souhayl says:

    Hello, I am building a dinghy 10 feet long by 5 feet large. I have use plywood all around and this is the mold. I will now apply Fiberglass (either Cloth or Mat) and will lastly remove the mold (the plywood)

    What is the best choice, Fiberglass Cloth or Mat ?

    Note: The dinghy will be only with fiberglass so it must be very strong and waterproof.
    Please provide all the materials that i will need. Thank you.

    • fgwarehouse says:

      You will need less layers of cloth, but it can be done with both. I would use a combination of both. I don’t know how many layers you will need. You could also use knitted fabric 1708 as it is strong and builds fast.

  26. Dean says:

    I’m building custom interior side panels in a 33 ford pickup , I’ve made templates out of cardboard. Which is the best fiberglass to use and which resin. I’ve worked with mat in the past repairing an old boat but I’ve never tried to make my own shapes . Plus need to end up with a smooth paintable surface.

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Dean, making the panels the way you are doing it will not leave a nice smooth surface. You will need to apply some sanding primer and sand it smooth. I would use chopped strand mat and general purpose laminating resin on the template.

  27. brobbins says:

    I have created a plug of a hull for a 50″ scale model of a mid-1850s sailing ship that I am going to make a split mold off of. This will be so I will end up with an open hull cavity to place R/C controls, batteries, etc. The hull has a LOT of detail that I want imprinted into the mold. I cannot use conventional paste release wax due to the small details, is there a spray on type release wax that would be compatible with the PVA I intended to use? Also, would you recommend Matt in lieu of cloth at least for the initial few layers?

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Hey Brooke,

      Yes, use our Orca Slip. Wipe it on, then let it dry. Works great. And yes, you want to use mat as your first layer, It will work itself into the details better than cloth.


    I’m repairing the wooden 2×4 engine mount rails in my boat. The wooden rails currently have a 1/8″ shell over them that will have to be removed to replace the wood. What material(s) do I need for strength and proper adhesion to the wood and existing fiberglass

  29. David says:

    I have a two story shed that has a roof top patio with 4 foot parapet walls. The size is 16×12. I plan on fiberglassing up the parapet wall and also the wall cap. Do i need to worry about themal expansion. I plan to do a cold roof insulation, but that will be latter in the year or next year. What would you recommend as far as type, weight, # of layers and resin. Amount of cloth and resin and tools needed. I also would like non slip surface. I am ready to order needed materials and start. I have only ever made a few small panels before with a kit that was bought at auto parts store. The panels turned out great and have held up as they still look new, but this is a different beast all together. Thanks in advance!

    • fgwarehouse says:

      [16:00] Dave: Name : Dave
      Email :
      [16:00] Dave: Hello
      [16:01] Dave: Hello
      [16:05] Dave: Hello
      [16:05] Dallin has joined the conversation
      [16:05] Dallin: Sorry David, I’m here now
      [16:05] Dallin: Let me read your last chat
      [16:05] Dave: Ok thought it was not working…lol
      [16:06] Dave: Ok
      [16:06] Dallin: I have a two story shed that has a roof top patio with 4 foot parapet walls. The size is 16×12. I plan on fiberglassing up the parapet wall and also the wall cap. Do i need to worry about thermal expansion. I plan to do a cold roof insulation, but that will be latter in the year or next year. What would you recommend as far as type, weight, # of layers and resin. Amount of cloth and resin and tools needed. I also would like non slip surface. I am ready to order needed materials and start. I have only ever made a few small panels before with a kit that was bought at auto parts store. The panels turned out great and have held up as they still look new, but this is a different beast all together. Thanks in advance!
      [16:08] Dave: The decking material is advantech.
      [16:09] Dallin: So the fiberglass will be on one side of the parapet and roof?
      [16:09] Dave: Yes and the cap around the perimeter
      [16:11] Dallin: Is the purpose just to waterproof or to add strength also?
      [16:11] Dave: I am building a bearthway hatch now that will be fiberglassed as well it is 3 feet x 5 feet and 30 inches wide
      [16:12] Dave: Waterproof that can handle daily use by 2 people. Strength is important as well but not primary.
      [16:13] Dallin: Let me look it up
      [16:13] Dave: 2x10x12 on 16 with advantech osb floor
      [16:14] Dave: Thank you
      [16:15] Dave: I have been researching and it seems in europe CSM 450g 2 layers or 600g for walking is what they use.
      [16:17] Dave: i am just not sure that will handle daily use. But what do I know.
      [16:17] Dallin has joined the conversation
      [16:18] Dallin: For decks, you want 2 layers of 1.5 oz at least. Let me see if that converts to 450 g
      [16:19] Dave: I want it to be strong and be able to handle use and 2 crazy dogs as well
      [16:20] Dallin: If you really wanted to make it strong, use a layer of 1708 and a layer of 1.5 oz. That would make a very strong structure.
      [16:20] Dallin: I would use ISO resin with it.
      [16:21] Dave: Is iso a brand or type
      [16:21] Dallin: ISO is a type. When looking at strength, you have ortho, ISO and Vinyl ester. IT is good better and best.
      [16:22] Dave: I had read vinyl ester is best for CSM
      [16:23] Dallin: It is almost has the same strength and waterproofing as epoxy, but much less expensive. You can go wrong using it.
      [16:23] Dave: But you recommend ISO
      [16:24] Dallin: At least ISO. Most people don’t want to pay the extra for VE.
      [16:24] Dave: I have not priced anything other than CSM
      [16:25] Dallin: Most people will use the CSM and ISO resin. But if you want to add extra strength and better waterproofing, change one of the layers to 1708 Knitted fabric and VE resin.
      [16:26] Dave: What about expansion? Some companys have expansion joints the run the interior deck to wall.
      [16:27] Dallin: To tell you the truth, I don’t know. The VE resin is good elongation.
      [16:27] Dave: So 1st layer 1708 and second layer 1 1/2 oz
      [16:28] Dallin: Yes, so the 1708 has a layer of CSM and fabric stitched together. The CSM side goes down first. Then put the other layer of 1.5 over top. So the fabric is sandwiched between the CSM.
      [16:28] Dave: So maybe no need for expansion joint along outside wall
      [16:29] Dallin: Maybe, But I really don’t know.
      [16:29] Dave: Ok I see, that is more of what i was wanting to hear
      [16:30] Dave: The joints are like 150 bucks more or less
      [16:32] Dave: The top outside wall is ballooned framed 12 foot 2×4 16 oc. The inside wall is also 2×4 16 oc tied together by 2×10.
      [16:33] Dave: You can kick the wall like kicking in a door and get zero movement.
      [16:34] Dallin: Sounds very sturdy
      [16:34] Dave: How much resin would i need?
      [16:35] Dallin: Let me calculate the weight of the cloth.
      [16:35] Dave: I would like an estimate if possible.
      [16:36] Dallin: So the over all size is 12×16?
      [16:36] Dave: Yes
      [16:38] Dave: 4 foot inside wall, 7 inch cap, + 18 sq ft for hatch
      [16:38] Dallin: So you have a picture? I’m having a hard time understanding all the dimensions
      [16:39] Dallin: Or do you know the total area that needs to be fiberglassed?
      [16:40] Dave: No picture of roof area some from ground level and inside second floor
      [16:43] Dallin: Ok, so the roof top patio is 12′ x 16′ and it has 4′ walls going around it?
      [16:43] Dave: Yes
      [16:44] Dave: With a 7 inch slope outward top
      [16:45] Dave: 467 sq ft maybe. My figure includes 18 sq ft for hatch
      [16:45] Dallin: Ok, I can work with that.
      [16:48] Dallin: You will need to add sand to the gel coat to give it a non skid surface
      [16:49] Dallin: File :
      [16:50] Dallin: A cup per gallon
      [16:51] Dave: Ok wow that VE is a hit.
      [16:52] Dallin: Like I said, people don’t like paying for the VE. Where are you located? Maybe I can save a little bit more for you.
      [16:52] Dave: Georgetown KY
      [16:52] Dave: What about those rollers for the bubbles….sorry i am a noob at this.
      [16:53] Dallin: You are putting a lot of fiber up there. It is more than 2 pounds per sqyd. You need almost 5 pound of resin per sqyd.
      [16:53] Dallin: Yes, you will need rollers, squeegues, mixing cups etc.
      [16:54] Dave: Wow 5 pounds per sqyd.
      [16:54] Dallin: I would get some 1″x6″ and 1″x3″ and some corner rollers.
      [16:55] Dallin: We could switch the 1.5 oz for 3/4 oz and not really see a difference in strength.
      [16:56] Dallin: That would save you about $200
      [16:56] Dave: Back to the expansion rate is that a factor?
      [16:56] Dallin: All my other deck guys that I know of don’t worry about it. The resin should adhere and make it act like one piece.
      [16:57] Dave: Ok.
      [16:58] Dave: How much difference would it really be with 3/4
      [16:58] Dave: You sell the roller as well
      [16:59] Dallin: Yes, $12 each.
      [16:59] Dallin: It might be a 10% reduction in strength.
      [16:59] Dallin: I have it all in the shopping cart if you want to call me with the CC number.
      [16:59] Dave: Not a win or fail difference then
      [17:00] Dallin: No, it really is neglible. The 1708 is very strong.
      [17:00] Dallin: I will add a roll of 4″ tape
      [17:01] Dave: And some of the strips for the floor joint….lol
      [17:01] Dave: Ok sounds good
      [17:02] Dallin: Let me re-do the quote and send it to you
      [17:02] Dave: Ok
      [17:02] Dave: Please do not forget the noobie discount…lol
      [17:04] Dallin: I added a pail of acetone. You will need it.
      [17:05] Dallin: File :
      [17:07] Dave: Ok….joint strips
      [17:07] Dallin: Oops
      [17:07] Dallin: File :
      [17:09] Dave: Please add 1 more of those and 5 yards to the fabics
      [17:10] Dallin: The roll of 1708 hs 50 yards on it. It is cheaper to send the whole roll.
      [17:10] Dave: Ok anything else?
      [17:10] Dallin: File :
      [17:11] Dallin: I will throw in a case of brushes.
      [17:11] Dallin: and the MEKP
      [17:12] Dave: Ok sounds good
      [17:12] Dave: I will need a mask that i can get local i will assume
      [17:12] Dallin: Yes, that would be easier. Theyh should have them at your local hardware store.
      [17:13] Dave: I have seen so videos of people not wearing them but idk.
      [17:13] Dallin: If it is well ventilated, you don’t need them.
      [17:13] Dallin: Since it is outdoors, i myself wouldn’t wear one.
      [17:14] Dave: Ok
      [17:14] Dave: Lets do this then
      [17:14] Dallin: Great. Call me on my cell

  30. Richard Halsey says:

    Hi, I want to make a roof panel for my 100″ ex military landrover (very similar roof to a 90 Defender) I will make a ply/mdf female mould so the mould is the outside, maybe I should drop some top hat aluminium rails lengthwise onto the last coats of resin.? What would you recommend to use ie. type of resin including gel coat upwards and what type of cloth/mat. This will be my first large fibreglass project other than model making ..
    Cheers Richard..

  31. Mark West says:

    Hi, we are in the process of converting a 25 liter bottle into a beer keg.
    the only problem is that the bottle does not handle the pressure and deforms.
    we tried fiberglass mat and got it up to 25 psi after which it delaminated could you suggest a stronger form of fiberglass that will keep the shape of the bottle while reinforcing it

    • fgwarehouse says:

      I really don’t know the true answer to the question. I would probably add some fiberglass cloth tape and wrap it around several times in all direction until you have a uniform thickness everywhere.

  32. Julian says:

    I’m going to be restoring an 80’s bowrider. I intend to use 3/4 standard plywood for the floors, and want a waterproof coating to lay carpet over. What is the least expensive way to accomplish this using your products? Also, if I decide to re-glass the stringers and the areas of the bilge, do you have any recommendations?

  33. Robb says:

    I am trying to build a new dashboard for my 79 Firebird. It has a lot of cutouts that I’m going to cover up. Once they’re covered, I am going to make a mold from it. I assume I would do that with CSM. After the mold, what weight and weave would you recommend? I was thinking a plain weave because the curves aren’t too aggressive but maybe a 4 or 8 harness would be more accommodating? Thanks so much!

    • fgwarehouse says:

      Most people would just use CSM for the dash also. If you want to cloth, then a combo of CSM and a layer of cloth will work well. The 4 and 6 oz plain weave are pretty good and complying to curved surfaces. The 4 and 8 harness satin weaves are very tightly woven and can be rather stiff.

      • Robb says:

        Okay, I’ll just use CSM for everything. Do you sell full kits or do I need to buy everything individually? Also, do I need to worry about mold release or gloss coat compatibility with my current dash that will become the base for my mold?

  34. theo mul says:

    I am building a large concrete swimming pool. I am thinking about economizing on the cement work (less /thinner rebar etc.) but then adding a fibreglass lining. However, only csm 450 is available! Would this be posible and if so, how many layers would you recomend.

    • fgwarehouse says:

      This is a tough question. You would have to create a very thick layer of fiberglass to replace any amount of cement. I would probably skip the concrete all together and just put in a fiberglass pool.

  35. Tony says:

    We live in a fairly dry part of SEQ. At the time of building our home our water tanks had to include a ‘first flush’ system which was intended to release (dribble) the first flush of water from any rain event. So we dug a small irregular (approx 4 square metres) unlined frog/fish pond under the first flush outlet. With the weather getting progressively drier we feel we need to minimise having to replenish the water every second day. The shape of the pond is considerate of the trees and shrubs around it and hence the reason why we have not persued a prefabricated shell.
    Would DIY fibreglassing be a practical option, and if so what would be the optimal products to use?

    • fgwarehouse says:

      It is a possible. It is tricky because of the dirt. Laying fiberglass and resin directly on the dirt is messy. BUt if you place a plastic sheet down first and lay up on that, you can definitely do it.

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